Recipes

Pot-roast chicken cooked in herby crème fraîche
A really lovely, summery way of cooking roast chicken from Olia Hercules beautiful new book Summer Kitchens.
Olia writes: "Chicken smothered and baked in cultured cream is an old classic, but sometimes I like to go one step further. I use a lot of herbs at home, and sometimes I am left with quite a few stalks: dill, parsley, basil and coriander stalks all work well when stirred into the crème fraîche. By the time the chicken is cooked, this turns into the most amazing sauce.
I like serving this with chunks of good bread and boiled cabbage or the cabbage and cucumber salad, but it would also be lovely with new potatoes or a buttery lemon rice pilau. Any leftovers are delicious stirred through hot stubby pasta."
SERVES 6
150ml crème fraîche
25g dill and/or parsley or their stalks, roughly chopped
4 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
1 tbsp rapeseed oil
1 large chicken, about 1.4kg Sea salt and black pepper
Blitz the crème fraîche, herbs, garlic and a generous pinch of salt in a food processor until smooth. Taste, and add more salt if needed, and some pepper.
Pour the oil into a roasting tin, add the chicken and spread the herby crème fraîche all over it, inside and out. If you have time, cover and leave to marinate for a couple of hours at room temperature, or in the fridge overnight.
Preheat the oven to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas Mark 6.
Cover the chicken loosely with foil and roast for 45 minutes, basting it a couple of times, if you remember. Take off the foil and cook for another 15–20 minutes, or until the legs come away from the body with ease and the juices run clear from the thickest part of the thigh when it is pierced with the tip of a knife.
Take the chicken out of the oven and let it rest for 5–10 minutes. Pull the tender meat from the bones with two forks and mix through the roasting juices, then serve.
What to drink: Although you could - and might well want to - drink a red wine with this (a Loire cabernet franc such as a Saumur-Champigny or Chinon would work well) with all these herbs I'd be inclined to drink a dry white. I'm thinking Hungarian Furmint or Austrian Grüner Veltliner but Italian white wines would work well to. As would a pale dry rosé.
What wine - or other drinks - should you pair with herbs?
Extract taken from Summer Kitchens by Olia Hercules (£26, Bloomsbury). Recipe photography © Joe Woodhouse

Seamus Mullen's kale salad with apple, toasted pecans and yoghurt and dill vinaigrette
I've never really 'got' kale but this delicious salad would convert anybody. AND it's healthy too!
I've added some notes about how they've adapted the recipe at Mullen's restaurant Sea Containers. Given that fresh herbs are scarce and expensive at this time of year you might also want to cut back on the number you use (apart from the dill).
Kale salad, apple, toasted pecans and yogurt and dill vinaigrette
Serves 4
1 bunch Cavalo Nero, Dinosaur kale or Tuscan kale
A handful of dandelion leaves if available
1 oz spiced, caramelized pecans*
1 apple, thinly sliced (they used Golden Delicious, apparently)
1 small serrano chile, sliced as thinly as possible
1/2 an avocado, cut into 1/2” pieces
2 oz yogurt and dill vinaigrette (see below)
a good handful of fresh herbs - Mullen recommends cilantro (coriander), basil, dill and mint. Gus, his sous chef, used chives, parsley and chervil

For the yogurt and dill vinaigrette:
1/2 cup (4 fl oz) full fat yogurt or kefir
1 clove garlic, grated
6 tbsp fresh dill
zest and juice 1 lemon
1 tbsp champagne or moscatel vinegar
1 tsp honey
1 cup (8 fl oz) extra virgin olive oil
salt
fresh ground pepper
Combine all ingredients except oil, whisk together, then drizzle in oil until emulsified.
Process
Strip the leaves off the stalks and cut the kale into a paper thin chiffonade. Combine all the ingredients, season with salt and pepper and plate in a small bowl (see above. (I suspect you need to let it rest for half an hour or so to soften as you do a slaw.) Garnish with fresh herbs and fresh cracked pepper.
* in the recipe Mullen says "toasted in brown butter, tossed in sugar, cayenne, ground coriander and sea salt" but his chef Gus says he dips the nuts in whisked egg white, rolls them in a mixture of onion and garlic powder, cayenne, curry powder, salt and turmeric then roasts them briefly at 165°C. Or use any spiced nuts recipe you like. Or buy them ready made.
What to drink: I found an Austrian grüner veltliner paired very well with this but so would an apple juice. (See my pairings for kale).
Obviously the picture at the top of the page looks more stylish but yours - and mine - will look more like the dressed salad in the bowl.
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